Grow Guide for MonoBox™ Mushroom Grow Kit
Important Update
The Enhanced version is now our standard MonoBox™ offering. For kits purchased after March 2025, the Mycowavable™ preparation step is no longer necessary as all kits now include pre-sterilised substrate.
Follow this comprehensive guide to achieve the best results with your MonoBox™ Grow Kit. We also recommend reading our troubleshooting guide for more detailed information which will help you solve and avoid problems.
Kit Contents
XL MonoBox Grow Kit Includes:
- 1.6L HEPA-Filtered Grow Box
- 1000mL SteriCoir™ Sterile Coco-Coir Substrate
- XL Grow Tent
- 1 Sterile Grain SpawnTub™ (approx. 650mL of grain)
- Chlorhexidine Alcohol Wipes, Hand Wipes, Facemask
- Sterile Gloves (Optional but highly advised)
Required: 1.5-2ml gourmet mushroom spore or liquid culture syringe (not included)
XXL MonoBox Grow Kit Includes:
- 3.1L HEPA-Filtered Grow Box
- 2000mL SteriCoir™ Sterile Coco-Coir Substrate
- XXL Grow Tent
- 2 Sterile Grain SpawnTubs™ (approx. 1300mL of grain)
- Chlorhexidine Alcohol Wipes, Hand Wipes, Facemask
- Sterile Gloves (Optional but highly advised)
Required: 3-4ml gourmet mushroom spore or liquid culture syringe (not included)
1. Inoculation of Sterile Grain Spawn
Reducing the risk of contamination is crucial in successful mushroom cultivation, and you can achieve this by working in a small, clean, and draught-free space, ideally using a Still-Air Box (SAB).
Before starting, cleanliness is paramount; take a shower, put on fresh clothes and clean your hands and forearms with a blue Clinell wipe. Ensure you have a face mask on, but hold off on your sterile gloves until step 3.
Next, prepare your syringe by attaching a new sterile needle. Now, take out your SpawnTub(s) from the box. Be mindful, once removed from the box, they are more exposed to the open air and any potential contaminants – that’s why working within an SAB is strongly recommended to minimise this risk.
XL vs XXL Note:
The XL kit comes with 1 SpawnTub while the XXL includes 2 SpawnTubs for added security. With the XXL, if one SpawnTub contaminates, you can still proceed with the other.
You’ll notice grey rubber injection ports on the lids of the SpawnTubs. Use a green Clinell alcohol wipe to sanitise these. Now you’re ready to inject the spore or culture solution. Pierce the needle through the cleaned rubber port and inject solution into each port: 1.5-2ml for XL kit SpawnTub or 1.5-2ml into each of the two SpawnTubs for XXL kit. Just remember, the pink filters on the tubs are not for injection!
While injecting, direct the needle towards the edge of the SpawnTub. Deposit the entire solution in that area. Now give the SpawnTubs a nice shake to distribute the solution all around (this will dramatically increase colonisation time).
Inoculation Troubleshooting Tips:
- Keep syringe handling to a minimum and only when necessary
- Rattle the syringe off a surface to unstick and distribute spores
- Don’t touch the rim of the SpawnTub lid or the pink HEPA filter – ever
- Don’t inject too much solution – maximum 2ml per SpawnTub for XL, or 4ml total for XXL
- Flame sterilise needle between SpawnTubs when reusing syringes
2. Colonisation of Sterile Grain Spawn
After injecting the spore solution into the SpawnTub(s), it’s time to set the stage for the colonisation process. Remember, Mycelium is alive and needs to breathe, so storing your SpawnTub(s) in an airtight container is a no-go. Instead, utilise the cardboard box they arrived in. It acts as a perfect shelter for your colonising SpawnTub(s) and helps keep them free from dirt and dust.
Temperature plays a vital role in the colonisation process. High heat (above 26°C) or cold conditions (below 20°C) can invite problems like contamination or sluggish to non-existent growth. The sweet spot lies between 20-26°C, and consistency is key here. Heat mats are not recommended as they can cause undue condensation, potentially leading to a breeding ground for contaminants in your SpawnTub(s).
Maintaining the right temperature can be challenging. If you find yourself in this situation, an incubator might be the solution. It’s a more cost-effective choice compared to running your home’s heating system constantly, and it tends to yield better results.
With conditions optimised at 26°C, you can usually expect your SpawnTub(s) to be fully colonised in about 2-3 weeks. Still, nature likes to keep us on our toes, and this timeline can fluctuate based on a multitude of factors. Patience will be your ally here.
Colonisation Troubleshooting Tips:
- Nothing happening? Look for condensation (could indicate microbe growth) or trace the mycelium line with a marker and check for growth after a few days.
- Stalled growth? Unstable temperatures are often the culprit. Avoid excessive handling of SpawnTubs.
- Yellow liquid? This is likely metabolites (natural waste products from mycelium) and not contamination.
- Bad smell? This usually indicates contamination. Give the filter a smell to check.
- Leave the SpawnTubs alone and forget about them – keep them totally still and clean.
3. Preparing Your Substrate
For Kits Purchased Before March 2025 (Mycowavable™ Coir Substrate)
When the grain inside your SpawnTub(s) is fully covered with healthy, white mycelium, you’re ready for the next step. It’s important not to open your SpawnTub(s) before this point, as uncolonised grains can get contaminated when exposed to open air.
For XL MonoBox™: Remove the lid and pour 450ml of tap water into the coir. Click down 3 corners of the lid, leaving 1 loose to allow for ventilation, and microwave on high for 10 minutes.
For XXL MonoBox™: Remove the lid and pour 900ml of tap water into the coir. Click down 3 corners of the lid, leaving 1 loose to allow for ventilation, and microwave on high for 13 minutes.
Make sure your microwave is clean before you start! After microwaving, the MonoBox will be hot, so handle it carefully and let it cool down to room temperature.
If you don’t have a microwave, no problem! You can use steam sterilisation with a pot of water. Here’s how:
- Get your pot ready: Put a few inches of water in a big pot. You’re going to put the MonoBox in the pot, but it shouldn’t touch the water, so you’ll need to lift it up a bit.
- Make a stand: Roll up some balls of tinfoil that are big enough to hold up the MonoBox above the water in the pot.
- Wet the coir: Pour boiling water onto the coir in your MonoBox (450ml for XL, 900ml for XXL). Stir it all around to get it wet everywhere.
- Get your MonoBox ready for sterilising: Put the lid on the MonoBox, but leave one corner open so some air can get in. Put some loose tinfoil around the top of the MonoBox and then put it in the pot you prepared.
- Sterilise: Keep the water in the pot boiling gently for about 30 minutes. Check to make sure the water doesn’t all boil away — if it looks low, add more boiling water from your kettle.
- Cool down: After 30 minutes, take the MonoBox out of the pot (be careful, it will be hot!) and leave it to cool down until it’s room temperature.
For Kits Purchased After March 2025 (Sterile Coir Substrate)
When the grain inside your SpawnTub(s) is fully covered with healthy, white mycelium, you’re ready for the next step. Your kit includes pre-sterilised substrate (SteriCoir™), so no additional preparation is needed.
The Enhanced version of both XL and XXL kits includes perfectly hydrated, sterile coir-based substrate which significantly reduces the risk of contamination. This means you can skip directly to the next step (Spawning to Substrate).
This improvement makes the growing process cleaner and easier while maintaining the hands-on aspects that lead to more robust harvests.
Substrate Preparation Tips:
- Always make sure to use a clean microwave if preparing substrate yourself
- Not all microwaves are the same – if in doubt, give your substrate a couple of minutes longer cooking time
- Be patient and allow the substrate to cool completely before proceeding
- Enhanced kits with SteriCoir™ eliminate the sterilisation step entirely
4. Spawning to Substrate
Before proceeding, clean your hands and forearms, and put on your gloves. Take a good handful of coir from within the substrate bag or MonoBox™ and set it aside for later use.
XL MonoBox™ with 1.6L capacity and approximately 1000mL of substrate.
XXL MonoBox™ with 3.1L capacity and approximately 2000mL of substrate.
We recommend pouring the coir into a large bowl to make it easier to mix with your spawn. Open your SpawnTub(s) and tip the colonised grain out into the coir. The grain will be in solid blocks that you need to break up – it can take quite a bit of force to get started, but be careful not to squish any grains.
XXL Kit Note:
If using the XXL kit with two SpawnTubs, break up and mix both fully colonised SpawnTubs with the substrate. If one of your SpawnTubs contaminated, you can still proceed with just the healthy one.
Swiftly and efficiently break up the spawn into individual kernels of grain, as each one is an inoculation point. The better you spread them through the coir substrate, the faster your colonisation will be! Transfer the mix back into your MonoBox™.
Finish with a thin layer of coir on top that you set aside earlier, until you can’t see any exposed grain. This is called a casing layer.
Secure the lid on the MonoBox™ and store it somewhere warm. An ideal colonisation temperature for many popular species of mushroom mycelium is between 24-26°C, but you can always try to mimic the colonisation temperatures from their natural habitat. Getting the temperature as ideal as possible at this point is crucial for success. You need the colonisation of the substrate to be quick, or there’s a high risk of contamination taking hold. This is the make or break stage of your grow.
In the right conditions, it should take around 10 days to see full colonisation of the substrate. However, we highly recommend leaving it for another 3 days after full colonisation to ensure the centre of the substrate, where you can’t see, is also colonised. Only when you’re confident that the substrate is fully colonised with strong, healthy mushroom mycelium are you ready to begin fruiting. Do not open your MonoBox™ before then!
Substrate Colonisation Troubleshooting:
- Inspect your spawn: Before mixing, make sure it’s 100% colonised with no unpleasant odors
- Temperature control: Low temperatures slow mycelial growth while microbes may continue growing
- Be patient: It won’t do any harm giving the colonised MonoBox a few days or a week longer to be on the safe side
- Environmental factors: Avoid opening contaminated foods in your growing area. Be careful with vacuums as they can spread contaminants
5. The best bit… Fruiting your mushrooms!
Maintaining a slightly cooler temperature of 20-22°C during the fruiting stage is essential for best results with many popular species of mushrooms. Remove the colonised block, known as a ‘cake,’ from the MonoBox™ and place it inside your grow tent as shown. Fold over the top of the tent so that humidity can build up inside.
5.1 Humidity and Air Exchange
Humidity and FAE (fresh air exchange) are extremely important for pinning and healthy mushroom development, as is temperature and light. They all need to work in harmony. Humidity will naturally build up inside the grow tent from water you previously added to the substrate mix, which is still stored in the cake. Unlike some other grow kits, you should not mist this kit (unless it looks dry).
The only time you’ll open your tent is when you’re ready to harvest your mushrooms. Even peeking for a few seconds is enough to lose humidity and cause growth defects such as aborted pins and caps breaking. We suggest cutting a 1cm slit through both sides of the tent near the top and placing an electric fan somewhere in the room on a low setting. This will create a gentle air current inside the room, which will help increase the FAE inside the grow tent.
5.2 Light and Environmental Conditions
Your mushrooms will need light to grow. We recommend indirect sunlight or a 6-7000K LED or fluorescent light a few feet away – if the light is heating the substrate, move it further away. If you notice the inside of your grow tent looking dry, it may be due to the fan being too close, the holes you cut being too big, or grow lights (if using them) being too close and hot. Observe what’s happening and adjust your setup as required. Fantastic results depend on it.
5.3 Pinning and Growth
After around 3-7 days, you’ll hopefully begin to see lots of tiny white dots. These are hyphal knots that will develop into primordia, aka mushroom pins. It will take 4-5 days for them to grow into fully mature mushrooms ready for harvest. During this time, they’ll let you know if something isn’t quite right. Fuzzy mycelium at the base of the mushrooms and/or thin stems are an indication that more FAE is needed. Increasing the fan speed or length of the cuts on the bag might be something to try.
Don’t worry about any mushrooms growing around the sides and bottom of the cake. You’ll still be able to harvest them. If you want to give your mushrooms more room to grow next time, use a fruiting chamber instead of a grow tent. Check out the photos on our CyLab product page for results when growing inside our CyLab fruiting chamber.
Fruiting Troubleshooting Tips:
- Water pooling: If you see pools of water touching the substrate, dab them with a paper towel. Standing water can become contaminated quickly
- Temperature issues: Maintain stable temperature between 20-22°C. Unstable temps can lead to excessive condensation
- Fuzzy stems: This indicates insufficient fresh air exchange (FAE). Try increasing airflow slightly
- Dry substrate: Only mist if the substrate looks dry; otherwise, humidity should come from the substrate itself
- Aborted pins: Often caused by environmental changes. Maintain consistent conditions
5.4 Harvesting and Subsequent Flushes
When the veil beneath one of your mushroom caps is about to tear off, this is when you should harvest your first flush. If you don’t get there quickly enough, spores will begin to drop from your mushroom caps and make a mess! It’s best to cut the mushrooms off with a clean scalpel or knife. You can also just pull them off, but be careful not to damage the substrate too much.
After you’ve harvested all the mushrooms from your first flush, you can use a method called “dunking” to get more moisture into your substrate. Simply fill a container with water deep enough to submerge your cake and place it in the water. It will float to the top, so you need to use something to weigh it down. You need it to be fully submerged in water at all times.
Place a lid on the container or cover it to keep everything clean. Leave your cake submerged for anything between 6-24 hours, depending on how much patience you have. But obviously, the longer you leave it, the better your results will be. When you remove the cake from the water, give it a rinse under the tap and allow excess water to drain away before placing back into your grow tent.
You should continue to dunk your substrate after each flush. If you’ve taken good care of it, you should achieve multiple flushes of mushrooms from your grow kit before the nutrients are all used up.
Expected Yields
With proper care and optimal conditions:
- XL Kit: Potential yields of 500-600g+ of fresh mushrooms across multiple flushes
- XXL Kit: Potential yields of 800-1000g+ of fresh mushrooms across multiple flushes
Remember that each flush typically produces less than the previous one, with the first flush usually being the most abundant.
Happy shroomin’ folks!
Last updated on 1 March 2025